Early Middle Ages: Capital of Byzantium (present day turkey)?
Constantinople
Early Middle Ages: What fabrics were used?
linen and wool primary; silk was imported from China (sericulture) – then became center of silk production
Early Middle Ages: Men and women both wore…
under and outer tunics with full-length cloaks
Early Middle Ages: What replaced the toga?
Pallium (jeweled wrap) p. 112
Early Middle Ages: When did the fall of the Roman Empire happen?
During the middle ages
Early Middle Ages: Dynastys…
Merovingian Dynasty, Carolingian Dynasty
Middle Ages: Had what type of system
feudal system (feudal wars constant between Germany, Britain, France
Middle Ages: Primary Fabrics
wool, also linen, cotton & silk
Middle Ages: Source of info?
Religious Art
Middle Ages: Mens under drawers…
braies (where the modern term breeches derives) p. 131
Middle Ages: Chemise…
linen undershirt worn with braies
Middle Ages: Cote….
undertunic worn over the chemise and braies; upper class – long , laborers or military – below the knee
Middle Ages: Hose…
Worn by both men and women and covered the leg
Middle Ages: Surcote….
outer tunic, worn to display the cote at the sleeve and the mens skirt
Middle Ages: Did the chemise under cote and surcote have a variety of sleeve styles?
yes
Middle Ages: Bliaut….
worn by women and upper class, was complex in fit and laced extremely tight along mid-torso p. 130
Middle Ages: In the Early 13th century, did surcote styles become looser?
yes
Middle Ages: Womens headwear….
fillet (standing linen band, like a crown, over which a viel might be draped), Barbette (a linen band that passed down from one temple under the chin and up to the other temple), wimple p. 136
Middle Ages: Mantle…
Outerdoor garment for men and women, was fur lined
Middle Ages: Closed Mantle…
poncho like, with an opening for the head
Middle Ages: Open Mantle….
Cloak-like with closure at center front or side
Middle Ages: Mens outdoor garments by the 13th century
Garnache, Poulaines, Herigaut
Middle Ages: Garnache….
long cloak with capelike sleeves
Early and Late Middle Ages: Poulaines….
pointed toe shoes
Middle Ages: Herigaut….
outdoor garment worn during the middle ages with slits under sleeves for arms p. 140
Middle Ages: Chainmail…
p. 138
Italian Renaissance: means
rebirth
Italian Renaissance: classical…
greece and rome
Italian Renaissance: Ruled by a ….
small city states in italy ruled by a monarch
Italian Renaissance: Clothes during this period were
purchased or made at home
Italian Renaissance: Guardaroba..
set of three garments purchased by the middle-class families during the italian renaissance
Italian Renaissance: Sources of info..
paintings (realism), documents, extant garments
Italian Renaissance: Men wore undergarments similar to…
braies
Italian Renaissance: Camicia was a ….
undershirt worn with hose, laborers loosened their hose p. 187
Italian Renaissance: mens doublets…
extended to the waist or any place below the hip (four seams – front, back and both sides – allowed for a closer fit) p. 199
Italian Renaissance: Outdoor wear for men…
capes cut very full to accommodate silhouette underneath p. 189
Italian Renaissance: Womens camicia was the same as the chemise…
yes; and remained much the same for the next two centuries p. 195
Italian Renaissance: How did they wear the gowns?
They layered them, made with a bodice section joined to a full gathered or pleated skirt. Closed by lacing up the front and sometimes the side
Italian Renaissance: How were the layers in the gowns shown?
through lacing and areas where two parts joined together
Italian Renaissance: Womens sleeves fit…
tightly and had to be split so the arm could bend, the camicia showed at the splits, sleeves were generally laced into armholes
Italian Renaissance: Influence on costume in the 16th Century…
spanish and french influence
Italian Renaissance: What was Venice’s distinctive style?
Chopines (platform soled shoes), blonde hair, high waists, unique dress for The Doge (highest official) and ruling class p. 194, 196
Italian Renaissance: Later 15th Century influence…
Spanish; wider skirts, rigid bodice, decorative elements of the camicia showed at the neckline
Italian Renaissance: Late italian renaissance style…
heavy fabrics, rich decoration and embellishment, several layers showing through outer gown p. 192
Italian Renaissance: Accessories…
Jewelry (pearls), head coverings (pearls, nets, ferroniere), mens hats, chopine
Italian Renaissance: Ferroniere…
chain or band of metal or pearls worn across the forehead with a jeweled decoration located over the center of the forehead
Italian Renaissance: Chopine….
very high platform soled shoes, worn in Italy and Northern Europe
Northern Renaissance: Germany..
Protestant Reformation
Northern Renaissance: Spain…
Gold, wealth, exploration
Northern Renaissance: England…
Henry VIII, Mary Tudor (aka Mary I), Elizabeth I
Northern Renaissance: France…
Italian Influences
Northern Renaissance: There was an intermarriage among..
royalty which led to the spread of fashion
Northern Renaissance: Decorative textile techniques included….
embroidery, lacemaking
Northern Renaissance: Mens dress phase 1
1500-1515; similar to late middle ages in components, shoes were now round at the toe though; doublet and hose visually lace together; jackets worn with wide skirts called bases p. 209, 225
Northern Renaissance: Mens dress phase 2
1515-1550; Wide shoulders, full sleeve cap, puffed and slashed p. 210-211 ; German influence, shoulders of doublets and short robes were wide, shoes were squared off
Northern Renaissance: Mens dress phase 3
1550-1600; narrower shoulders, gradually wider at hip, trunk hose p. 212 ; spanish influence, doublets worn with different styles of trunk hose, hose and/or breeches worn p. 213, 225 ; doublets were cut with a distinctive shape called peascod belly, short capes worn over the doublet, ruff worn at neck
Northern Renaissance: Womens dress phase 1
1500-1530; transition from the styles of the medieval period
Northern Renaissance: Womens dress phase 2
1530-1575; Spanish influence, overdress was hourglass in shapes supported by farthingale with square neck and flared skirt, left open to show petticoat p. 225, 216, 217
Northern Renaissance: Petticoat…
womens underskirt
Northern Renaissance: Ruff…
separate from shirt, very wide, often of lace (collar)
Northern Renaissance: Upper and Nether stocks…
two sections that were sewn together (upper stocks also called breeches)
Northern Renaissance: Womens dress phase 3
1575-1600; skirts grow wide at hips, supported by farthingale and bum roll, collars extend upwards to counter balance hip width p. 221
Northern Renaissance: Womens undergarments…
chemise plus various new pieces to provide shape to outer garments: stays (corsets), busk, farthingale (later called a hoop skirt), and bum roll
Northern Renaissance: Womens dress…
a sheer cape called a conch was worn with a standing collar, fabrics were heavy, decorated with layers of surface detail p. 220, 219
Northern Renaissance: Womens dress….
lacemaking techniques developed in the 16th century and were incorporated into wide ruffs, collars and cuffs, open ruffs and closed ruffs were worn
Northern Renaissance: Womens accessories
gloves, fans, hats, and head coverings, shoes and boots (squared toe and somewhat of a heal)
17th Century: France….
Louis XIV & Versailles
17th Century: England…
Puritans & the Mayflower
17th Century: Holland…
Trade and Middle Class
17th Century: America…
Newly colonized, fashionable imports
17th Century: New Technology
loom; East India Company trade
17th Century: Fabrics popular
silk and wool ; increased european cotton trade and popularity of “cintz” (handpainted and glazed cotton)
17th Century: Mens dress phase 1
1625-1650; shirt of white linen, ruff becomes falling band collar, cavalier style hat with wide brim and plumage p. 244, 246, 253 ; jacket worn over shirt, breeches replace trunk hose, tall boots were preferred, hair worn long and curly p. 244
17th Century: Mens dress phase 2
1650-1680; Falling band replaced by cravat, petticoat breeches (aka rhine graves – full breeches, look like a shirt), doublet shortens and then evolves out of use, cannons (ruffles) attached to hem at the knee p. 247
17th Century: Mens dress phase 3
1680-1700; White shirt worn with long cravat sleeved waist coat (aka vest, extending to the knees), and outer coat over vest. Silhouette becomes narrower, with a closer fit on the body p. 250
17th Century: Accessories for men
cravats, wigs, boots p. 252
17th Century: Womens dress phase 1
1630-1660; softer silhouette replaced the wide farthingale, a wide lace collar edged the usually low neckline, full sleeves p. 251
17th Century: Womens dress phase 2
1660-1680; Bodices lengthen and narrow, shaped into long “v” at the front, skirts were either open with contrasting petticoat or closed, necklines were often horizontal p. 254
17th Century: Womens dress phase 3
1680-1700; Necklines become higher and more square shaped, decorated stomacher (front bodice inset) pinned to corset front, mantua style gown with train, sleeves end just below elbow p. 255, 256 ; elaborate lace headdress called a fontange, plumpers made of wax worn inside cheeks
17th Century: Were capes worn by men and women?
yes p. 246, 261
17th Century: Accessories for women
copotains, fans, mules, slap sole shoe p. 252
The Late Middle Ages: changes..
taxing to support wealthy, gunpowder, banking and investments, city workers # go up, black death spreads in cities
The Late Middle Ages: social structure
nobility, bourgeoisie, peasants
The Late Middle Ages: Sumptuary Laws…
develop to prevent fashionable dress among the merchant class (the bourgeoisie)
The Late Middle Ages: Sources of Info
art, inventories, literature
The Late Middle Ages: styles in the beginning of the 14th century
for men are loosely fitted, much like those of the late 1200s
The Late Middle Ages: 14th century style for men
pourpoint, cote-hardie, houppelande p. 152, 171
outdoor garments – garnache, herigaut, cloak p. 140
outdoor garments – garnache, herigaut, cloak p. 140
The Late Middle Ages: Pourpoint…
sort of mans jacket worn in 2nd half of the 14th century
The Late Middle Ages: Cote-Hardie…
variant of surcote or outer tunic, shows differences in usage of same form from country to country
The Late Middle Ages: Houppelande…
originating as a mans house cote worn over the pourpoint, the garment was fitted over the shoulder, then widened below into deep, tubular folds or pleats, which were held in place by a belt
The Late Middle Ages: Garnache…
long cloak with capelike sleeves
The Late Middle Ages: Herigaut…
full garment with long, wide sleeves and a slit below the shoulder in front through which the arm could be slipped, leaving the long, full sleeve hanging behind
The Late Middle Ages: mens accessories
jeweled belts, purses, pointed poulaines or crakowes, head coverings
The Late Middle Ages: Womens dress 14th century
linen chemise was the only undergarment p. 163, womens gowns (formely the cote) fit the body more closely again p. 164, 166
The Late Middle Ages: Womens outdoor garments
capelike, open mantles
The Late Middle Ages: Womens accessories
jewelry, head coverings, belts, purse hanger, purses
The Late Middle Ages: 15th century mens dress
Cote-Hardie is replaced by doublet and/or short houppelande ; men also wear jackets (longer than doublets), and braies grew shorter p. 171, 166 ; separate hose are gradually replaced by joined hose that have a front pouch called a codpiece
The Late Middle Ages: Outdoor garments for 15th century men
cape, huke, cloak
The Late Middle Ages: Accessories for 15th century men
poulaines, purses, hats
The Late Middle Ages: 15th century womens dress
gowns follow body lines closely and were floor length, women adopted the houppelande (over gown)
The Late Middle Ages: last half of the 1400s for women…
women adopted an elaborate gown with a deep v-neck, high headdress worn in variety of styles esp. the hennin
The Late Middle Ages: outdoor garments for 15th century women
open mantles
The Late Middle Ages: accessories for 15th century women
purses, shoes, jewelry, headwear p. 166, 167
The Late Middle Ages time period
c. 1300-1500
The Early Middle Ages time period
c. 300-1300
The Italian Renaissance time period
c. 1400-1600
Northern Renaissance time period
c. 1500-1600
The 17th Century time period
c. 1600-1700
Middle Ages was considered:
Europe 10th-13th centuries
Chainse…
outergarment for upperclass women; made of washable material, probably linen, was long to seems to have been pleated
cote…
undertunic, worn over chemise and braies
gown…
formerly the cote
hennin..
enormous cone-shaped, peaked hat, yard high p. 164
huke..
worn by upperclass men, originated as covering for armor, closed over shoulders and open at sides
pelice…
any of a number of fur-trimmed garments including outer wraps, under tunics and outer tunics
poulaine…
pointed to womens shoes
